HARLEM
Legendary music producer Arthur Baker (also the don of the Elbow Room) is the soul behind this soul-food joint. Upstairs is a laid-back bar-restaurant, downstairs a sleek little late-night speakeasy. So feed your soul – first with New York-style stodge, and then with fresh, funky tunes in the basement.
The ground floor channels the American diner, all banquettes, exposed industrial piping, and window seats, though exposed brickwork, dark wood and an elaborate chandelier give it a touch of extra class. It’s dream brunch territory, with hearty stuff that’s just what the doctor ordered after a heavy night – we’re talking Christmas-style calories. Choose from buttermilk pancakes with maple syrup or the all-day Harlem Downtown breakfast special: sausage patties, bacon, tomato, Boston baked beans, home fries and eggs any style. If that sounds a little on the heavy side, there’s always granola and fruit salad.
There’s also a range of restorative brunch cocktails – the more rock-n-roll amongst you will relish a Breakfast Fizz: gin with fresh orange and red grapefruit, topped with club soda. Otherwise there’s a solid wine list and an astonishing choice of American and Canadian beers (Moosehead, anyone?). Evenings from 6pm the menu brings out the big guns: Harlem special buttermilk-fried chicken, fried catfish, meatballs in marinera sauce & mashed potatoes. You get the picture.
Part of the appeal of the downstairs bar, Harlem Underground, is that it opens until 2.30am. It’s a snug little oak-and-steel haven that’s big on atmosphere, and always packed late at night. You have to pay a charge of £10 to get in after 10pm, but – as you might expect – the music’s always good (hip hop, funky, electro, disco, ’80s pop, afro beat) and it’s a happening hangout. Space might be tight, but the expats and Notting Hillbillies make the most of what is there, with dancing till the small hours to earn that brunch.
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