WENLOCK ARMS

What’s that Withnail? Two ales, two halves and a pack of pork scratchings? We’re sorry; stepping into the nostalgic interior of the Wenlock Arms transported us straight back to the Mother Black Cap with Withnail and Marwood. We meanthat in a good way – the Wenlock is a corner boozer right out of the 1960s, from the dustsheet-covered piano near the door to the smoke-coloured paint on the ceiling. Pubs like this simply don’t exist any more, and that makes this family-run ale-house a London treasure.

The Wenlock has been voted ‘Best Pub in North London’ on four separate occasions by the Campaign for RealAle for the impressive line-up of guest ales along the bar – nine at the latest count, sourced from all over the country and perfectly conditioned. Try a pint of ale here, then a pint of ale at any other pub in the area, and you’ll see what we mean. Drinkers are a mixture of bearded ale-addicts and groups of students and thirty-somethings enthusiastically tasting their way along the taps. (The website has a list of all the barrels currently residing in the cellar.)

On Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, the dustsheet is whipped off the old Joanna and veteran musicians belt out jazz standards from between the wars. Members of the crowd often take a turn on the ivories while performers break for a pint during the Sunday afternoon piano sessions. It’s good, honest, barrelhouse fun, and we can’t praise the range of real ales highly enough. If you want to see what pubs were like before the All Bar Ones and O’Neill’s came along, there’s nowhere better this side of the river.